Von welchem Gelenk reden wir denn?
Allradantriebswelle? vorn/hinten? Oder Allradachse links/rechts?
Normal... baut man die Gelenkwelle (wenn es um die Antriebswelle geht) halt aus, ist ja keine große Sache und dann zerlegt man das gelenk auf der Werkbank bzw. im Schraubstock. Unterm Traktor hab ich das noch nicht gemacht und würde das wohl auch nicht machen wollen.
Hi Dennis, I've posted this in this thread, since my original seems to have gone into a thread of it's own?
I'm new here too - was looking to see if the Zetorworld.com site was up & running yet - apparently not.
However I've just finished doing this job (again) on my 7045 . When I got the tractor there was no cardan shaft guard on it (we call it a prop - short for propeller shaft in UK). The UJ on the drop box was really worn, so I had to replace it. It is quite difficult to do the first time when the joint is all covered in rust & dirt.
Drain the oil (35l or so)
First remove the 4 nuts from the flange on the front differential & pull the propshaft free.
Then slide the propshaft apart, leaving only the rear female spline & UJ yoke attached to the drop box. Now the fun will begin!!
Remove the two circlips from the rear part of the UJ yoke. Clean the yoke thoroughly & use some penetrating oil Plus Gas or similar. I would strongly recommend using a large G clamp & a couple of sockets to press out the UJ bearing cups (three hands would be useful!).
There are videos on Youtube of using a Ball Joint press to do the same eg
I modified a large G clamp by welding spacers to it to do the job. It's really difficult to do underneath the tractor, because the cups tend to tip & jam half way out & you can't hold them in the vice like the video show, you have to use a mole grips or similar.
Once the cups are out, you can wangle the joint apart, remove the split pin & nut holding the yoke into the drop box.
Now you can remove the 4 bolts holding in the oil seal holder PLUS the two vertical bolts either side of it - the holder won't come out without these two bolts being removed. Two oil seals 45X60X7 & the Oring 63X3 can then be replaced. Replace in reverse order, but use some thick high melting point grease (Kango hammer grease is good) to hold the roller bearings in the cups when replacing, using the G clamp &/or careful tapping to replace the cups. It's a silly design , requiring removal of the cups to remove the prop shaft when a simple spline into the drop box as on many RWD cars would do the job & allow UJ replacement on the bench which is easy.
If yours doesn't have the cardan guards, make sure to refit them (I've just ordered mine) because the reason I had to redo this job is because long grass & rushes wrapped themselves around the joint & penetrated the seals, resulting in a serious oil leak & another few hours lying on my back underneath the tractor in the winter!
best of luck
Its coming up - but as a result of less time and some trouble with our servers here, the restart of zetorworld.com comes later at this year. Its not fine or what I would do, but my days also have only a 24 hours limit.